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 The idea was born in the late '70s in several minds. Why not create a place where to put the safety and tasting all the perfumes that have ever been created? Great idea! After some time the famous "nose" Jean Kerleo (Jean Kerleo) embodies this collective dream into reality. Osmoteka (Osmotheque), the only institution of its kind in the world, was founded in 1990. Nowhere fans perfumes can not try the thousands of flavors that exist in the world today, yesterday, or even existed in the very distant past (eg, there is a Royal Perfume era of Romanesque and medieval Eau de la Reine de Hongrie).
Experts of this incredible warehouse located on the small streets of Versailles, even recreated the formula, accidentally found in a drawer of an old desk, cologne, which is produced on the island of St. Helena where Napoleon was exiled to. Thousands of perfume that seemed solution with the mists of time, were
brought back to life thanks to Osmoteke
. Application on paper strips, these scents take us to the forest glades of their homeland or during their first appearance on the stage of the perfume. Heady Blue Narcissus by Mury (1920), a nostalgic Christmas Night by Caron (1922), a sensual Russian Leather by Chanel (1924), luxury Crepe de Chine by Millot (1925) ... And it's only a few of them!
Osmoteka also
pays tribute to the pioneers of the perfume industry
. Louis-Toussaint Pivert (Louis-Toussaint Piver), one of these innovators, has left us a Crimson Clover (1896), full of a freshness that has not lost its relevance today. Another Francois Coty (Francois Coty), created the famous Jacqueminot Rose (1903) that made Bon Marche department store buyers to lose his head because of its elegance and grace.
Paul Poiret (Paul Poiret) became the first couturier to "poked" in perfumes. Its flavor Parfums de Rosine has the same energy, originality and carelessness, as well as its fashion. One breath of his seductive Arlequinade (1924), for example, makes us again and again bring to the nose striped paper again to enjoy the smell. Another couturier Jacques Fath (Jacques Fath), excites the senses with exquisite accents subtle Grey Iris (1947). The list goes on and on. It will be unfair to mention only a few among a large number of equally charming and amazing creators. After all
Osmoteke represented in all the "aristocracy" of perfumes
. The dynasty Guerlain (Guerlain) was only four perfumer since 1828 - Jacques Guerlain, for example, to create fragrances for 70 years - they were all members of one family and still inspire others with his confident combination of tradition and innovation.
The modern era in perfumery began with the
synthetic ingredients INVENTION
at the end of the XIX century. In 1882, Houbigant (Houbigant) took the first cautious step with the scent of Royal Fern, based on coumarin synthesized Perkin; Aimé Guerlain (Aime Guerlain) released in 1889, Jicky, using synthetic vanilla from Reimer. Eventually, in 1921, Ernest Beaux (Ernest Beaux) has created world-famous Chanel No.5 with a bold dose of aldehydes, which by that time were used in small amounts in many flavors. However, the use of synthetic materials and of recognition - are two different things. Many perfume companies have started completely free to use them in their compositions. Others, using some people distrust everything new, continued to create fragrances entirely from natural ingredients, mostly rare. As a result, Jean Patou (Jean Patou) instructed Almerasu Henri (Henri Almeras) to create "the most expensive fragrance in the world." Floral bouquet Joy showed that the chemical components used correctly can completely replace the purest natural essences.
"Musk", a beautiful story of Percy Kemp describes the anxiety of a dandy when he learned that his favorite cologne will no longer make natural musk. Monsieur Aimé, the protagonist goes to the store to buy the last lot yet natural composition. This crisis is developing in parallel with the story of the fear of old age. "As long as the image of its flavor remains stable, permanent, renewable, - he writes - he does not see his bald head, wrinkles, hand with venous stars, knotted joints and stooped gait. And he thinks that this will not notice the other until it is perfume with the same scent and the same aromatic form. " (The term "aromatic form" ("olfactive shape") was first used Roudnitska Edmond (Edmond Roudnitska), the brilliant creator of Eau Sauvage by Dior, in his book "L'Esthetique en Question", where he describes the nature of the material of flavors, recognizable to the trained "nose" as a person familiar person.) The reaction of Monsieur Aimé is not unique;
Many people feel more free and relaxed under the "protective aura" of his friend flavor
.
The strength of the olfactory perception evoke old memories and associations, allows each aromatic essences to create your own world, plunges us into the kingdom of our personal impressions and images, harmonies and desires. Manipulating our most intimate feelings, perfumer becomes the architect of emotional space, the artist on the canvas of the imagination, a sculptor of intangible material that works at a deep level of perception.
Author: Lyudmila Lavrushina
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